The Annamite mountains dash down the eastern side of
Laos forming a natural physical boundary with Vietnam. The
historical Mekong River outlines the boundary between Laos
and Thailand. China shares a border on the far northern reaches,
as does Burma. Cambodia borders the most southern end. Being
completely landlocked has had a deep-seated effect on Laos'
history.
Most of the cultivation occurs on the lowland plains
of the Mekong. A conduit for trade and transport, the Mekong
river is an integral part of Laos' history.
The
two high plateau, the Boloven (named after the Laven tribe
- Bolaven means 'place of the Laven') and the Plain of Jars,
are verdant grasslands which are currently mark with plantations
of coffee and fruit. Laos, fortunately, remains forested over
much of it's area, though there are vast regions up north
that have been slashed and burned for tribal agriculture.
Logging is a big problem (just like everywhere else in the
world). Sadly, Thailand's hunger for hardwood has contributed
much to the destruction of much of Laos' jungles.
The rainy season runs from about mid April through
October. The hottest times of the year are from March onwards
until the rains cool things down. November to March is cooler.
The skies are normally blue. In the northern regions, it gets
rather chilly in the evenings.
In March, the temperature can, but seldom does, reach
35 degree Celsius (100 degrees Fahrenheit). By March, much
of Laos is very dry. The rivers are at their lowest levels.
Unlike
her neighbors, Laos is sparsely populated. According to
1999 census records, Laos has just over 5,000,000 citizens.
Thailand and Vietnam both have an average of 100 to 200 people
per square kilometer. Laos has a little over 20 people
per square kilometer.
This low population density allows subsistence farming
to flourish. Once out of the few cities in the country, you'll
see a lot of farming. Villages tend to occur in verdant valleys
cradled between immense limestone karst peaks. Bring plenty
of film!
Laos ranks 11th in the world
in forest coverage! 85% of the country is covered in some
sort of vegetation.
There is a distinct dry season and, just like in Thailand,
deciduous trees loose their leaves during this period. It's
not the temperature that causes this, but the lack of water.
Tall Dipterocarps form the upper canopy, with teak
residing in the middle layer. Various tropical trees, bushes,
shrubs, and grasses make up the lowest levels. Orchid and
other epiphytes can be found living on many of the trees.
We're particularly impressed with the gigantic Staghorn ferns
found on many trees along the rivers we paddle. They really
add a nice 'jungly feel' to the surroundings.
The
bad news: almost anything that walks, swim, or flies is
subject to be eaten by the locals. Many are extremely poor,
so this is an integral part of their regular food. The (sort
of) good news: there aren't many people.
Laos shares approximately half of the animal species
that are native to Thailand. Laos has well over 400 species
of birds, almost 70 species of bats, 6 flying squirrels, 10
non-flying squirrels, 10 species of civets, Pangolins, various
cats, and a lot of reptiles. Monkeys include the Snub-nosed
Langur, Pig-tailed macaques, Stump-tailed macaques, Phayre's
leaf monkey, and the Rhesus monkey. Concolored Gibbon are
found in very remote mountainous areas.
Some of rarer animals endemic to Laos includes the
Asiatic jackal, the Asiatic black bear, Malayan tapir, Malayan
sun bears, barking deer and other deer, Gaur (wild cattle),
and Bangeng (wild cattle). Tigers and Clouded leopards evidently
are still present, though their numbers are very low. Javan
One-horned rhinos and Sumatran Two-horned rhinos are believed
to still exist in the Bolaven plains.
Irrawaddy dolphin can still be seen around the Si
Pan Don (four thousand islands) area of the Mekong River.
The wide Mekong River separates Thailand and Laos,
but the separate quality of Laos has to be experienced. Similar
languages mask vastly different recent histories. Whereas
Thailand has not been a colony of any country (other than
a period of pragmatic accommodation of Japanese invaders during
WWII), Laos was part of French Indochina. Laos was a recipient
of America's obsession to crush communism in Southeast Asia.
Between the CIA "secret war" in Laos and the need
for American planes returning from missions over Vietnam to
offload ordnance, Americans dropped more tons of bombs on
Laos than it did worldwide during World War Two! Unlike the
situation in Vietnam, pilots were allowed to bomb Buddhist
temples.
This is a boat made from the gas tank of a US fighter jet.
But bombs and foreign colonialists cannot destroy
a culture. The Lao government, to its credit, has done much
to slow the sellout to mass tourism which has negatively affected
many formerly splendid areas in Thailand. While the street
system in the capital city of Vientiane remains primitive,
new roads upcountry have opened up opportunities to visit
unspoiled areas. On our first river trip in Lao, down the
Nam Ou in l997, we stayed in villages which had never had
Western visitors. The Lao people are open, curious, and friendly.
There are no signs of greedy behavior which become common
in other countries among local people working in areas frequented
by Western tourists and tour groups.
All of the many villages that we’ve visited seemed
very comfortable with our visit. It is customary to deal with
the village headman first. That’s the traditional method.
You will be overwhelmed by the minimalistic lifestyle in a
typical village. Villagers own very little, yet they are happy.
We stand a lot to learn from Laotian culture.
Many village houses are built on wooden pillars. Some
houses utilize this area for livestock. Others use this area
for crafts such as weaving or basket-making. The kitchen is
normally attached, but very different from what most of us
are used to. For one thing, it can be dreadfully smoky. Open
fires burn on the floor.
Many of the villagers go off seeking employment elsewhere.
Unfortunately, it’s not unusual to find villages comprised
mostly of the very young and the elderly. They sometimes return
in the planting or harvesting seasons.
Life for those remaining is very relaxed and laid-back.
Time seems slowed and troubles seem less important that they
usually do when you’re in a village in Laos.
Vientiane is just across the Mekong River from Nong
Khai, Thailand. The ‘Friendship Bridge’ crosses the Mekong
River and it’s a very easy place to cross the border. The
Lao government, to its credit, has been cautious of permitting
Thai business practices overwhelming the local economy.
Laos is going through changes. The problems of over-modernization
are on their way. For now, you can still find cheap accommodations
with modern conveniences like TV, telephone, and hot water.
Get out of the bigger towns and you’re back a hundred years.
Laos appears to be holding fast to its rural lifestyle. With
so many Asian countries stuck in the struggle for material
gain, Laos has taken a different position, one that provides
some comfort and a way of life that is truly blissful.
The Mekong is a sizeable river even in the dry season
(January through April), but there are shallow places and
small rocky islands everywhere at low water. It is the 12th
longest river in the world. It ranks 10th in volume.
There are no dams along its length through Laos. China,
with their usual lack of environmental concerns, plans on
putting nearly two dozen dams on the Mekong in the next few
decades. This could have very severe consequences for
countries downstream.
The Mekong also boasts the largest freshwater fish
in the world, the Giant Mekong catfish.
There are no industrial zones along the Mekong except
in the delta area in Vietnam.
Just upstream from Luang Prabang are numerous caves
and grottos in the limestone cliffs. Some of the caves are
inaccessible. The Pak Ou caves are famous pilgrimage sites
in Laos. They are filled with Buddha statues amassed over
hundreds of years. Some of the most valuable statues from
the cave have been taken to Luang Prabang for safe keeping.
There are still thousands remaining. It’s truly an amazing
site.
Luang
Prabang, a World Heritage Site, is one of the most preserved
cities in Southeast Asia. If you come upon Luang Prabang by
river, you’ll be treated by seeing several temples right on
banks. Walking around Luang Prabang is easy. You can readily
visit several temples in a day. PaddleAsia always makes time
to visit cultural and artistic treasures. There is a sense
of openness and antiquity that provides you with a feeling
of purity. This region of Laos has actually gone down in population
since the Vietnam War.
There are nice hotels in Luang Prabang in addition
to less luxurious accommodations. Some of the bigger hotels
are being, or have already been, restored in a French Colonial
architectural motif. Plenty of outdoor dining exists. Ornate
terraces and elegant woodwork make some places especially
pleasant.
The Palace Museum is worthy of a good part of a day.
In fact, the area where the museum is located is rich in interesting
sites. More than 30 temples survived French colonization.
The Palace Museum features a host of very impressive
generous diplomatic gifts given to the former royal family
from heads of states of other countries. Many of these are
true works of art. In addition to killing thousands of innocent
civilians, the United States government gave the tackiest
gift imaginable - a cheap plastic lunar landing module model.
The first time we visited this place, we were shocked by how
callous our government could be. We, being US citizens, were
truly embarrassed.
Before leaving Laos, it is your duty as a traveler
to enriched your life with a textile wall hanging. They are
very inexpensive. Silk and cotton weaving with intricate patterns
can be purchased for very little money.
Coming from a First World country, it’s difficult
for some of us to fully understand or appreciate the revolutionary
struggle of a small Southeast Asian country like Laos. The
leaders of Laos are steadfast in their negotiating with capitalist
countries to achieve best deals for their truly remarkable
country.
Laotians are very friendly, respectful, and particularly
polite. The government of Laos is trying to keep the
rich culture in tact. They are doing a very good job of it.
Tourism could be a boon or devastating. You can help by supporting
responsible tour operators.
